LisbonThis fine city on the river Tejo was once capital of half the world. It may be showing its age here and there, but it is exactly this charm that makes the place so likeable. Since Expo 1998, Lisboa has found its feet as a modern, hip metropolis. Like Rome, it is built on seven hills – so there are lots of steep inclines. But an elevator and a tram make it easier on the legs. Typical for a port, Lisbon boasts a large number of bars and cafes. And as the famous Portuguese saying goes: Coimbra studies, Braga prays, Porto works and Lisbon parties.
Cafés & Restaurants
Cervejaria da TrinidadeA large, lively pub in a former cloister. The walls are decorated with beautiful azulejos – painted wall tiles often depicting historical events or scenes from everyday life.
Ru Nova da Trinidade 20, phone +351 213 42 35 06, www.cervejariatrinidade.pt
Café A BrasileiraLisbon’s most traditional cafe. Artists, writers, politicians and journalists have been coming here since 1906. The most famous guest was Portugal’s acclaimed author Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935). His visit is commemorated with a bronze statue on the terrace, which shows him enjoying a cup of coffee.
Rua Garrett 120, phone +351 213 46 95 41
TivoliIn addition to its excellent cuisine (we recommend: sela de Borrego, saddle of lamb), the restaurant in Hotel Tivoli boasts a fantastic view across the city’s rooftops, stretching as far as Rio Teyo, from its sixth-floor terrace.
Av. da Liberdadade 185, phone +351 213 19 89 00, www.tivolihotels.com
Fábrica dos Pastéis de BelémThe home of Portuguese delicacy pastéis de nata (custard-filled pastries). These sweet treats may be available all over Europe, but this place sells the originals.
R.de Belém 84-92, phone +351 213 63 74 23, www. pasteisdebelem.pt
Faz FiguraLarge helpings of traditional Portuguese cuisine (lots of meat, lots of fish, few vegetables). And an impressive view of the river Tejo from the restaurant’s terrace.
R. do Paraiso 15, phone +351 218 86 89 81, www.fazfigura.com
Running – Cycling – Skating
The most popular routes are along the river Tejo – for example, in Parque das Nacoes, the site of Expo 1998. For those who prefer a greener setting, Lisbon’s highest hill Monsanto offers some beautiful trails.
Culture
Mosteiro dos JerónimosThe pomp and riches of the former world power are reflected in this fantastic building. The spectacular cloister, built in the 16th century, is decorated from top to bottom with intricate patterns. Its large church, which has three naves, houses the graves of national heroes Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camoes. A must see – even for those who usually find churches uninteresting.
Praca do Império, Belém, phone +351 213 62 00 34, www.mosteirojeronimos.pt
Museu Calouste GulbenkianA huge range of exhibits from a variety of cultures. You’ll find Egyptian, Greek, Roman, and Oriental works. But you’ll also see paintings by Rubens, Rembrandt and Monet. The surrounding park is well worth a look, too: sculptures blend in perfectly with the partly landscaped, partly wild garden. There is currently a Pedro Morais exhibition.
Av. de Berna 45, www.gulbenkian.pt
Shopping
SolarLovers of the traditional, usually blue-painted, azulejos will find everything they could possibly wish for in this store in the Bairo Alto district. Original tiles from the 16th century or brand new goods. And the price spectrum is just as broad, ranging from €8 to €325 a piece.
R. D. Pedro V 68-70, phone +351 213 46 55 22
Centro Comercial ColomboEnormous shopping mall, typical for Portugal. Colombo is the largest center of its kind on the Iberian Peninsula, housing hundreds of shops and restaurants of every type.
Avenida Lusíada.